1993 Dodge Caravan Bendix 10 ABS system removal and non-ABS system install.
Use this information at your own risk. I have tried to make it as complete as possible, but I may have overlooked something.
If you find something that should be added to the page, contact me at techmav (at) tygrmotors.com and I'll add to this.
Do not get under a vehicle supported only by a jack. I recommend putting the van up on 4 jack stands before you even consider getting under it.
Remember you are replacing a vital system of your vehicle. If you have ANY doubts as to your abilities, DO NOT DO THIS.
I make no warranties, express or implied, as to the suitability of this information. You use this info at your own risk.
From the junk yard:
- Brake pedal and mounting bolt
- Brake booster and master cylinder
- Brake lines from master cylinder to proportioning valve
- Proportioning valve and mounting bolt
- Two front brake lines, from valve to front wheel brake hoses
- Two brake lines from valve to rear load valve
- Rear load valve, 4 mounting bolts, and 2 U-nuts
- Rear valve link and mounting braket
- Two brake lines from rear load valve to rear brake hoses
Remove the front tires when you put the van up on jack stands. The rear tires can stay on.
To remove the Bendix-10 ABS system, you will need to follow the pressure bleed instructions. With the van turned off, press hard on the brakes and release 40 times. This is to remove the residual pressure from the ABS system, which in theory could be as high as 2500PSI. Chances are though, if you're doing this procedure, the system is already dead. I still recommend bleeding the pressure off anyways.
You will need to remove the cover panel under the dash, held in by two screws on the front edge. Once that is out of the way, remove the clip on the brake pedal that secures the piston rod on the ABS system to the brake pedal.
The brake pedal is held in by a rod through the top. On the left it is milled flat to accept a 7/16" open end wrench to hold it. On the right is a 15mm nut. Use a deep-well socket and a swivel ratchet to remove the nut. Push the rod out to the left, and the pedal can be removed.
Keep the rod and nut, and the two white plastic bushings.
Under the hood
Remove the battery and tray. Remove the air filter box and hose to the intake. CAREFULLY remove the throttle body and shift it left to get it out of the way. If you're careful, you won't have to disconnect anything from it.
On the front of the ABS unit, there are two connectors. Go ahead and unplug them. There are two hoses from the accumulator that need to be removed. Once is fastened with a clamp at the front of the ABS unit, the other is on the passenger side of the unit and fastened with a flare nut. Remove both.
There are four brake lines that need to be removed. Two are underneath and two are on the passenger front side of the unit. Remove them.
Once the lines are disconnected, you are ready to go under the dash again and remove the four nuts that hold the ABS unit in place. Once those are out, remove the ABS under under the hood and put aside. Keep in mind, it will still have brake fluid in it, and will most likely be dripping.
The accumulator is mounted with a bolt and two nuts. The bolt is accessible through the driver side wheel well, and the two nuts are accessible from underneath. Break the nuts loose, then remove the bolt and the accumulator can be lifted out through the top. Be care of the throttle cable in the same area.
Disconnect the hard line from the flex line at the bracket, then remove the bolt holding the line to the fender well. You'll be able to remove the line at this point.
This is the most difficult line. It routes across the back of the engine compartment, behind several hoses and the fuel lines. I recommend disconnecting the fuel lines on the passenger side at the fenderwell. You'll also need to disconnect the ground strap at the firewall. Unbolt the line from the firewall, then do the same in the wheel well as you did on the Driver Front.
Removal of the line is tedious, but can be done without disconnecting anything else. Push the line down and unhook it from under the wheel well, then lift up and rotate slightly. You'll need to watch out for the fuel lines. Once you have the passenger side up, you can slide the line to the left carefully and work it behind everything. I recommend practicing with the old ABS line so you have an idea how the non-ABS line will need to come out and go back in.
Open the gas cap and remove the four screw holding the filler neck in place. Once those are loose, place a jack with a board, or a transmission jack, under the tank to support it. At the rear of the tank are two 15mm bolts holding the straps in place. Unbolt those and let the straps hang, then carefully lower the tank and slide it towards the passenger side. You need to do this to get to the two clips on the frame rail that hold the brake lines.
Once the fuel tank is down, unbolt the rear lines and disconnect them from the flex hoses. Pop the clips open (leave them on the frame rail) and remove the lines out the back.
Junk Yard Info:
When you pull the system at the junk yard, be sure to get all the parts listed above. You'll remove them in a similar manner as above.
When you pull the rear load valve, be sure to get the two U-nuts on the outside of the frame to be used when you reinstall it. You'll need to drop the parking brake cable box from the frame that is in the way of the bolts. Keep in mind how it mounts, so you can reinstall the load valve.
Recommended disconnection method:
Disconnect the lines from the master cylinder
Leave those two lines connected to the proportioning valve
Disconnect the other four lines from the proportioning block
Disconnect the rear brake lines (to the wheels) from the rear load valve
Leave the brake lines from the rear load valve forward, attached to the rear load valve.
Pop the clips loose from the frame rails to keep the lines together. It helps keep things aligned and help keep track of what is where.
Install the Passenger Front line first. It is by far the most difficult line.
Install the Drivers Front line.
Install the proportioning valve and connect the front lines to it.
Install the rear load valve. Be sure to get the lines up near the proportioning valve. Fasten the lines to the frame clips. Don't forget the U-nuts on the outside of the frame.
Connect the rear lines to the proportioning valve.
Install the rear lines. The driver side line is on top.
Install the link bracket and the link to the rear load valve.
Install the master cylinder and booster, then the brake pedal
Bleed the system, then bleed it again.