1985 Honda Magna V30 Fuel Pump Replacement
Use this information at your own risk. I have tried to make it as complete as possible, but I may have overlooked something.
If you find something that should be added to the page, contact me at techmav (at) tygrmotors.com and I'll add to this.
I'm making the assumption that you have the shop manual for the bike and have a basic knowledge of how to work on a motorcycle.
Remember you are replacing a vital system of your vehicle. If you have ANY doubts as to your abilities, DO NOT DO THIS.
I make no warranties, express or implied, as to the suitability of this information. You use this info at your own risk.
- 5 ft of 1/4" fuel line
- Fuel Filter
- Mr Gasket 12S Fuel Pump
- Mr Gasket Fuel Regulator 0-6PSI
- Hose clamps (I used fuel injection clamps)
- Bench Vise
- Hand saw, such as a hacksaw or coping saw
You will need to clamp the fuel pump gently in the vise and saw the plastic mounting frame off. Saw most of the way through, taking care not to nick the pump, then reclamp the frame by one of the mounting ears. Using a pair of vise grips, break the frame and remove the pump.
Pull the seat. Drain the fuel system at the petcock valve. Once the system is empty, remove the right side trim panel, the battery and battery box. Remove the coolant overflow tank and the rear wheel. Remove the two nuts you will see on top of the frame under the battery box. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump to the carbs and the fuel line from the sub tank to the petcock valve.
You can then remove the fuel pump/filter/petcock assembly straight out the back, passing under the rear fender.
Once you have the assembly out, I recommend replacing the hoses. If they are covered in a braided jacket, they are most likely the original lines.
Remove the fuel filter and pump. Save the wires from the pump, as you'll need them to connect the new pump.
Carefully slice the rubber sleeve off the old fuel pump and save.
Wrap the sleeve around the new fuel pump, paying attention to put the output of the pump to the right (the end with the wires). Use three zip ties around the rubber sleeve to hold it tight.
If you're replacing the lines, cut a piece about 8" long and clamp it to the top input nipple of the petcock. This line will go to the sub tank when you reinstall everything.
The line from the bottom of the petcock needs to go towards the right.
Insert the fuel filter into the rubber mount, with the input side to the right (front of the bike). The line from the bottom of the petcock will connect to the input of the fuel filter.
Cut about a 4" piece of line and connect to the output of the fuel filter. This will go to the input of the fuel pump.
Mount the fuel pump back to the bracket and connect the line from the fuel filter to the left (input) side of the pump.
Slide the assembly back in from the back where the rear wheel mounts. You will need to drill a new hole for the front bolt. Fit the rear bolt in place and temporarily mount it with a nut, then rotate the assembly counterclockwise. This is to give clearance for the output fuel line and move it away from the exhaust header on the engine. Mark and drill the new mount hole. Unbolt the rear bolt and drop the assembly back down. You can now connect the line from the top of the petcock to the sub tank. Connect the output of the fuel pump to the line leading to the carbs. Mount the assembly in the new holes.
The fuel pressure regulator needs to go into the line leading up to the carbs. I recommend mounting it near the bracket on the left side, just in front of the left hand side cover. You'll most likely need to put a zip tie on the line to hold it in the bracket ahead of the regulator.
The green wire on the connector from the old pump, is ground. Connect that to the black wire from the pump. The Black wire with a blue tracer is the positive line. Connect it to the red wire from the pump.
Reinstall everything in the reverse order and test.